Travel: A taste of Filipino arts and cuisine
Originally posted April 4, 2009“So where can you go in the Philippines?” is always a question we receive at the office from foreigners who are on a business trip here for several days.
“Boracay, Palawan, Bohol…” would be our standard answer, listing the most popular beaches in the country. Upon learning that they are a plane ride away, however, the foreigners would say, “No, no, I’d really prefer someplace nearby where you could experience the local culture.” At that, my officemates and I would eye each other in despair. Frantically racking our brains for ideas, we’d inevitably point them to the cultural institution whose ubiquity says it all: the mall.
Fortunately, I had the opportunity to go on a tour a few weeks ago that would be perfect for recommending to visiting businessmen – accessible enough from the capital so they could leave in the morning and be back in the evening, and encompassing a flavor of Filipino culture that they’re all looking to experience.
Sulyap Gallery Café: Home is where the past is
We started off our trip at Sulyap Gallery Café, a small eatery in San Pablo City, Laguna, which is approximately a 2-hour drive south from Metro Manila. Situated in a reconstructed town house from the Spanish colonial era, the café is meant to give customers “a glimpse of the past,” says owner Roy Empalmado. (“Sulyap” in Filipino literally means “glimpse.”) Amid the wood-paneled walls and stained glass windows, we partook of the buffet breakfast, which consisted of bread rolls with grilled beef, coconut pie, suman (glutinous rice cakes), and fresh pineapple slices. Best of all was the homemade hot chocolate or tsokolate to wash them all down with. Yum!
After a filling breakfast, the feeling of being transported into history further intensified when we walked through the adjacent antique furniture store cum gallery. Designed to resemble an 18th century Filipino home, the gallery is effectively divided into four showrooms – living room, dining room, master bedroom and children’s room – exhibiting the common furniture and accessories for that part of the house. In the hallway are various knick-knacks such as antique lamps, ceramics, rattan armchairs, old portraits, and even a vintage matchbox collection.
Truly, it is astounding how extensive Mr. Empalmado’s collection has grown. Starting in 1991 out of a fascination with antique pillow organizers of all things, he branched out to collect other pieces of furniture. Two years ago, he quit his job as an architect to focus on his passion project, and the café and gallery have now been operational a whole year, turning a modest profit for him and his partner.
For him, though, his antiques collection is more of a gallery than a store, although majority of his pieces are for sale. (He sells some of them with a heavy heart, he shares.) His passion for preserving Filipino history and cultural heritage is plain to see, and you’ll leave with a sense of wonder at how our past still influences our present.
Carlito’s Workshop: Inspiration is false
From one passionate craftsman to another, we next went to the workshop of sculptor Carlito Ortega, also in the San Pablo city area. The workshop is located at the back of his family’s sprawling complex, and can only be reached by going through the imposing house and riotous garden of plants and flowers. It is obviously an artist’s dwelling as the beauty aesthetic is strong all throughout.
In Carlito’s workshop, the attraction is primarily Carlito himself. Have a cup of delicious, homemade rice coffee and a bowl of ginataan with the host in the gazebo, as he discusses art, the local scene, and inspiration.
During our visit, he shared with us his three theories on art. First, that attention to detail is needed to develop an artist’s mind and eye; second, that conflict is necessary for creativity; and third, spirituality is paramount and you need to share your creations with everyone.
“Hindi totoo ang inspirasyon (Inspiration is false),” he memorably uttered. Inspiration fades, he explained, while the task of the artist is to create something beautiful through discipline and hard work, even when the initial fire of inspiration has grown cold.
Afterward, he demonstrated the construction of one of his bronze sculptures, which he accomplished through a combination of welding and hammering. Our group left with the image of the sculpture he created: a tikbalang, a mythical creature of Philippine folklore that is half-horse, half-human – a childhood nightmare finally given form.
Ugu Bigyan’s Pottery Garden: Feast for the senses
Last, but definitely not the least (in fact it could be considered the highlight of the tour), is a visit to Ugu Bigyan’s pottery workshop in Tiaong, Quezon. Augusto "Ugu" Bigyan is a renowned potter, specializing in clay dinnerware sets, furniture, and home décor that are often commissioned by many of the country’s upscale hotels and posh resorts. His residence and gardens are awe-inspiring; you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a quaint village inspired by clay. The buildings are clay-colored in soft shades of pink and orange. Several nipa huts/gazebos dot the spacious garden, which are perfect for chilling out and spending lazy afternoons with friends and family. Indeed, it feels like a paradise retreat away from the city; somewhere where you can reclaim your peace of mind and creativity.
Lunch is cooked by the maestro himself…and it is simply a culinary experience like no other. Mr. Bigyan’s most famous concoction is the kulawo, which he actually demonstrates how to cook and generously shares the recipe for. Kulawo is made with banana heart and coconut milk, and tastes a little like tuna. We ate that along with a lunch of pako salad (fern with other fresh fruit and vegetables), corn soup, calamares, shrimp, grilled ribs, and sweet and sour fish with mango salsa. With every bite came an explosion of flavor in our mouths, and the combination of sweet, sour, and salty tastes felt like an artistic masterpiece too.
We topped off the whole afternoon with another demonstration from Mr. Bigyan, who left us oohing and aahing at how simple pottery looks. (Don’t be deceived.) Adjacent to the dining area is a store where you can buy plenty of Mr. Bigyan’s work, and you’re sure to walk out purchasing a souvenir or two.
Mr. Bigyan says his aim in opening up his residence and workshop is to create a tourist destination that would showcase Filipino artistry and cuisine. I think he succeeds in spades, as do all three of the places we visited. All three are part of the Viaje del Sol tour, which is a guide map or suggested itinerary to notable destinations in the southern Luzon provinces. (Visit their official website for more details: http://www.viajedelsol.org).
Viaje del Sol means “way of the sun,” and this sounds about right. It is the perfect way for foreigners and domestic tourists alike to acquaint themselves with the sun-kissed land and warm hospitality of Filipinos…and, along the way, enjoy a local hot meal or two.
